After leaving Siki Im, in a rush, I jumped into a cab with someone I met within the time I spent viewing the collection, so about five minutes. I was there for an hour and a half, but we’ll explain what happened later. Making it in time for Toni Francesc, I checked in, grabbed my seat number and stood until the music begun.
(I was fourth row, and wanted to see if a first was available! ha. You never know.)
Inspired by Man and Machine, Toni Francesc takes the alienation, and irony in industrial fulfillment humanity attempts to acquire more-so each coming day. From past to future, he takes elements worthy of steampunk, reminiscing the base of passage, and an ideal of future cyborg reasoning. Colors ranged from black to the hues of rusted metal. Perfectly cut bobs, and make-up that made each model look as if they were a luxury designed machine gliding down the runway, with outfits fit for any post-modern, to avant garde, quest.
Sleek for speed, efficiently trimmed to be wired… I mean sewn, and timeless. Pieces that are for the strong woman, from the norm of fashion patrons to those of industrial goth. Materials used were cotton, viscose, and silk, which Francesc took as “textures and shades that are modified through fading processes”. Definitely, it was one of my favorite shows to attend during Fashion Week. Toni Francesc officially is also one of the designers I admire, and be determined to wear this coming Fall.
Gift bag consisted of a wonderful lookbook, more information about the collection, Francesc’s biography, some of Salerm’s products (nail polish + hair product), and a CD containing all the printed information provided. All of course worthy to be stuck on my Fall 2010 fashion wall.
As I made my way through the Hudson Hotel to Good Units, I ended up running into Cody from the clothing line, Priestess NYC. A further post shall follow of detail, but anyway! He’s hand in hand with Patricia Field to promote sales, for relief, of their current stock! For victims of the Chile and Haiti earthquakes, all money will be donated to the International Red Cross Fund.
Upon today, all purchases of Priestess NYC clothing and accessories will be eligible to go to the effort. From immediate critical relief, to long-term recovery, it’s to help those who are drastically in need.
Go check out the store at:
302 Bowery
New York, NY 10012
(Between E Houston & Bleecker Streets)
and Online:
PriestessNYC|Patricia Field
Looking for a way to weird up your Saturday night? Head to the S.L.A.M. Warehouse, (51 North 1st Street in Williamsburg Brooklyn), for a dreamy time. In Your Mind is a dream-state masquerade inspired by Carl Jung’s ideas on the unconscious with an interactive twist. With actors, artists and performers floating around the 5,000 square foot dance floor, a four-hour dance installation and music by internationally acclaimed Wolf & Lamb artists, In Your Mind is not to be missed.
S.L.A.M. Warehouse, 51 North 1st Street in Williamsburg
Saturday, February 27, 2010, 10pm – 5am
At the door. $15 before 12am, $25 after
As I managed to slide my way into first row at Binetti, not only did I have the best view, I was able to catch the models posing at the end. Probably my favorite place to sit. At the Exit Art Gallery, snug in a seat, interns pulled up the paper that was covering the runway, music gradually grew louder, and the lights signaled that the show was seconds from beginning.
While the models strutted down the runway, Binetti clearly expressed his influences by a collection that was full of where Europe mixed cultures amongst the Mediterranean, with hints of a pilgrimage through the Middle East, Asia, and Far East. Alongside warm, dominant colors of red, creams, and golds, Binetti threw in a bit of black and white for Fall too. Swarovski crystals, beads, and ruffles accented the collection. It felt like a modern-day eurasian gypsy love affair. I definitely adored each piece, especially the white puff-sleeved blouse with red and black trimmings.
When I returned home later that day, I dove into the Gift Bag. It contained a delicious red velvet cupcake in a chinese take-out box, which I almost destroyed before realizing I should probably TwitPic it. The other contents consisted of beauty supplies like eyeshadow, a shaving cream kit (the classic one with a brush? Ha, will re-gift to one of my boys! Love you.), and a couple other bathroom items such as soap.
Designers Nina Zilka, Jeff Dodd, and David J. Krause, are working their way up by each distinguished “season-less” collection they propagate.
For their presentation, they brought together a collection with dominant shades of black, white, grey, and purple, alongside a film by Elle Rex with music by Designer Drugs.
If you would like to see the rest of the pieces, click here.
NYFW Presentation: Rachel Antonoff’s Murder at the Lafayette House
As presentations step away from the structure of a catwalk they give an unlimited possibility to how the clothes should be devoured. During New York Fashion Week I went to a handful of presentations and plucked out each designer from the batch that took proper advantage of displaying their collection. As many more designers morphed over to this format, there was quite a few critics displeased with the rest of the designers who made it just awkward or overbearing to be at a presentation. One of the most satisfying was definitely Rachel Antonoff’s Murder Mystery at the Lafayette House. The invitation made one to believe they were reading the introduction to a mystery book, but in the end, realized it was quite in fact, listing the details and directions.
While one made their way through the house, up and down stairs, squeeze into rooms, and even waiting a bit in the garden- there wasn’t much draining of excitement but only the increasing amount of eagerness to see the scenes and guess the killer.
The Fate of the House of McQueen: A conversation about the king’s heir.
As the announcements that the McQueen house will go on, many assume a specific heir. Right now the names that people deem logical to take over the legacy are Gareth Pugh and Olivier Theyskens. What fans do not know are that when houses need heirs, they put those who studied and worked under the head, on top. From Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, Tom Ford for Gucci, and to Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, it’s the natural way to how new names receive praise in addition to how brands keep their established aura solid by each new collection. So who are those that worked under McQueen that have gained eligibility? Or will Gucci Group and PPR truly consider someone who did not work alongside McQueen to know his exact likes and dislikes? I strongly doubt that possibility. It can go two ways, a very commercial luxury brand, or with a proper heir, a stable global luxury brand that continues to evolve. When it’s commercialized completely, brands are brands. They’re known for their specific taste, it doesn’t matter now if anything truly fresh is produced, people will buy just for the label. I believe the closest example for this would be Coach. As for a brand that meets in the middle: Louis Vuitton, which they luckily have Marc to level it out with RTW. When someone takes over that is already a talented designer, then it can live on through new collections as well as through its trademarks. Like Dior chose Yves before he passed, hopefully Lee had an idea to who’d take over his legacy through the unreleased suicide note he left.
Today started out in the morning with Georges Chakra, then I quickly dashed to Rachel Antonoff, receiving a last minute invite for Twinkle, and ended up at I Love Factory. Now I’ll post a bit of news from the rest tomorrow, but at the moment I’d like to just get straight to it: The I Love Factory presentation. I Love Factory consists of a woman and a man as the design team. Forming scrumptious hats, they bring life back to an accessory that many tend to forget. Sporting my antique 19th century beaver hat, I ran from the tents, hopped on the subway, and walked a couple blocks to their presentation at China 1. Downstairs the aura of the room was delightful with full capacity of the most wonderful people. I passed out the rest of the “REBEL” buttons, made new friends, and most importantly, recorded the presentation! Laurel was dazzling in her loosely fit white dress, and her hat just made the outfit, easily! Christopher was in grey, and making the rounds about the room. Part one of their presentation, which was their introductory invitation video, is called “Eternal Coronation”.
The second part, which actually was the filming of the presentation, will soon be released! But now here is my short clip:
Indulgent Victorian-esque girls laying amongst the dark Chinese lounge brought the instant image of courtly British colonists and the suave greed of the East India Trading company. Sipping Absinthe out of tea cups and fanning themselves in that moment of heat (unless it was the fact that I had a wool coat on inside?) the models kept there ground, even when dozing off and Laurel poking them like Tinker Bell to arise from their faint state… The hats spoke for themselves, integrating the inspiration which was clearly displayed and merged with I Love Factory’s signature modern-elegance, delicious, taste.
Now, I left around 8:45pm, was assured a few times, then became determined to grab a gift bag. I’m not one to hunt for gift bags, but I refused to leave without remembering this one. There’s somewhat of a joy in gift bags heartfelt people make, they’re not forced upon you, they’re not empty by being harshly manufactured, and I just love the thought, it’s what counts! (Oh, and I Love Factory, expect a gift bag from me soon! hehe.) Time to open it….
Hooray! My other favorite (and the reason why I made sure to get the gift bags too), was the business cards from all the people put their heart into the event! Everyone was just so driven, so kind, and so abundant of certitude in themselves and others. I introduced myself to a good amount of people there, and the top hat made a fabulous conversation piece may I add?! More pictures coming soon, and if you see a girl with bright purple lipstick and a top hat, forward it over!
Editor-In-Chief: Bacall Michaels
(Entertainment bred, writer born-fashion lover.)
Senior Director: Chloe Stillwell
(New School student, contributor to photographers, lovely, ole’ southern gal.)
Fashion Writer: Liz Black
(City Magazine, Huffington Post, and DIY master.)
Contributor: Gregory Littley
(Branding Consultant, a positive helping hand, and Twitter squire.)
Our Tweeters: CLICK.
And The #NYFW Hash Tag: CLICK.
Organic brought back a modernized version of the sixties with that slightly messy beehive hair-do and mini dresses. See more of the collection here.
Erro shined by displaying the skill of layering with various pieces adorned in leather, knit, and a bit of fur. See more of the collection here.
Hexa’s talks of cultural fashion-religion emphasized asian persuasion in drapery meets western tailoring. See more of the collection here.
Nonoo Lyons had tailored, edgy but quite feminine blazers with high-wasted short shorts galore. See more of the collection here.
All Photos courtesy of WWD.
5pm EST: Oumlil (Show) – Covered by Liz
6pm-8pm EST: Mara Hoffman (Presentation) – Covered by Chloe
There will be other shows that we’ll be covering with minimal review today (personal & of previous review).
Including: Erro, Organic, Cushnie et Ochs, Mackage, and MIK CIRE by ERIC KIM, et al.
Update: Chloe got food poisoning, and Liz is tweeting via @CityMagazineNYC.
Photo by Rachel Carr
Event: No Cancer!
During No Age, I was shoved up on stage from the pit and was there for the rest of their performance. It was dazzling, and I’m still counting the bruises. I protected the drums from this extremely drunk big boy in a Hawaiian shirt… I don’t believe he knew exactly where he was! Also, my ears have never lasted in ringing this long before. Galleries don’t do sound too well. I should strongly consider earplugs or cotton balls when going to these types of events since I’ve always been around quite loud music from disco to punk. Especially when I end up on stage and am not in the back, but directly in the full frontal force of the speakers. I missed out on Vivian Girls, I ended up leaving early to go to dinner since the event started at 12pm, but I was actually there to meet up with friends around 11am. One thing I have to say is, besides the people throwing the event and a few others, LA what is the reasons for your issues with Fashion? Anyway, it was great fun, and a bit of a relief from working. Now back to New York and to Fashion Week!
Check out Vivian Girls: Facebook | Myspace
Check out No Age: Facebook | Myspace
Events for Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2010 began this week, but officially start tomorrow. With various invites to shows and presentations, we’re covering quite a few. From twittering live to blog posts and video, we’re here to update you with our fashion week experience from the parties to even the indie designers. Our schedule along with the reporters information will be posted later today. But first, we’ll go over our set up:
*Tweeting will be done by all reporters via @DefyingMnstrm.
*Tweeting for shows they’re personally attending via their personal accounts.
*Follow the Fashion Week in New York feed with out other distractions on Twitter by looking at the page for the tag: #NYFW
*Read live blogging, video updates via Vimeo, Twit Vid, Pictures, all straight from the tents, venues, and galleries.
*Special Features + Video. From interviews with Designers to interviews with models, hairdressers, and etc.
*Updates from the most fabulous parties!
*Buttons to pass out and our new logo/font will be put into use.
*Plus so much more!
Stay tuned: Schedule will be posted shortly!
Update: Schedule will be posted daily due to any last minute additions.
Earlier today I tumbled out of bed, slapped on some stilettos, a dress, made sure I looked semi-proper, and skipped out the door to do a photo shoot. This shoot was with Walker, Syd, and Nora of Acrylic Nails at an abandoned house’s backyard on Beachwood in Hollywood. I had to remind myself at one point that these young darlings were only fourteen and in eighth grade, because their maturity exceeded their age. During the photo shoot, my six-inch studded patent leather shoes ended up becoming the focal point- and each of us switched off with wearing them! If you’re interested in seeing more, look no further, here’s the link: Acrylic Nails Photography’s Blog. P.S. Hopefully we’ll get a bit more from Walker over the next few days, definitely need to get a few more frames for this site!
Here’s your educational thought for the day: Sociologists attribute a societies’ physical standards of a woman directly correlated to their economy. Thusly, when the economy is thriving, thin is in; when the economy is down, chunky is chic. When a woman is heavier she seems well taken care of, healthier and more fertile. Perhaps, as the economy suffers, this is the reason that so many designers and magazines are flocking to “real women” and “plus-sized” models for their campaigns.
Mark Fast jump-started the plumped up trend by sprinkling plus-sized models in with “regular” models in his Spring/Summer 2010 collection in London. Fast felt that voluptuous women would fill out his body-con knit dresses better than the typical size 0 models most designers pick. Fast stuck with this notion, even though it drove two members of his design team to quit, citing “creative differences.” We applaud Fast for his initiative, and are even happier to hear he plans to continue using plus-sized models in his future collections as well.
V Magazine jumped on the hefty honey bandwagon with their issue devoted to curvier cuties. Many felt that V, known for pushing the boundaries of fashion, was exploiting these women instead of embracing their size due to the unflattering styling and over-emphasis of fleshy folds. The responses to the editorial ran the gamut; comments online range from “Great story. Sexy. I love the pic with the naked girl on the floor. F-ing sexy!” to “This has nothing to do with curves…this is just overweight! awful so much fat, not healthy! Now if I feel like that, I don’t want to eat anymore, I don’t want to become like them.” It’s worth noting though that the models pictured in the shoot are only a size ten to twelve, which, while immensely larger than the typical model, is actually smaller than the average American woman.
So what does the recent use of plus-sized models say for the future of the modeling world? Should we expect to see size 10 glamazons stomping down the catwalk next to the typical size 0 bony beauty? Or is this just a trend that will surely fast away?
